Appliance Installation Guide- Washing Machines/ Washer Dryers

Freestanding Washing Machine Installation- A step by step guide.

At Carters we sell more freestanding Washing Machines and Washer Dryers than any products in other categories. Our Delivery/Installation crew are well able to complete most installations at a very competitive rate but if you wish to undertake this job yourself then please spend a few minutes in reading this informative guide.

Be Prepared: We believe this is a job for two people. Use gloves to move the machine into position and ensure you have basic tools including a plumbers wrench ready for use.

Starting the Job: 1. A good base. A good firm level floor preferably made of concrete is the preferred base for the machine to sit on, although most homes will have the plumbing already in place giving little choice as to where the washing machine should be fitted,This firm base will ensure the machine works as intended without vibrating or causing a noise issue. Sometimes a wooden suspended floor is the only option but this can shorten the life of the machine through the excessive vibrations placing addition strains on the in built suspension of the machine. What can be done? Our recommendation is to use a substancial wooden board such as a kitchen worktop (60cm wide by 60cm or the depth of the machine) that should be screwed firmly to the floor. It will not transform your floor into a perfect base but will normally help a great deal in dampening down the vibrations caused by flexing wooden boards. Remember that a washing machine weighes 60-70Kg plus the weight of your clothes and the water in the drum. That is a lot of weight to bounce on your floor! Please discuss this issue with our staff if your floor is thought to be a problem especially when installing heavier machines such as those made by Miele. Flexes in wooden flooring especially if the machine is fitted between joists can sometimes fool the machine's sensors in thinking the washing load is unstable and out of balance. This can cause added wash times as the machine will continue to rock the drum in an effort to balance the clothes evenly around the drum before entering into a high spin speed for washing and spinning the clothes dry at the end of the cycle.

Starting the Job: 2. Unpacking and preparing the machine for use. First unpack the machine from it's protective packaging. This may be a mixture of cardboard, wood, nylon strapping and polystrene. Ensure that the machine is tilted backwards so that any transit packaging can be removed from under the machine normally placed there to protect the drum. We have found that every manufacturer protects their machines from damage when transporting them from the factory to your home in different ways. A good idea at this stage is to consult the user manual or the installation manual that should give all the information needed at this stage of the operation. It is important to remember that the warranty that is offered with the machine will not include any damage caused by incorrect installation including the non removal of transit material. All machines will have some method of restricting the movement of the drum before use usually by two, three or four bolts found in the rear of the machine that must be removed in their entirety so ensure that any plastic or rubber mouldings are removed from the drum when the bolts are undone. A good method is to spin the drum by hand seeing if it moves freely when spinning and rocking the drum to mimic its operation in use. This is very important as we have seen many machines that have sustained serious sometimes terminal damage through the transit bolts being still partially attached to the drum. Keep these bolts in a safe place as it is always better to replace them in the drum if moving house. We are convinced this is the major reason for many people replacing their washing machine after causing issues at their new home. Finally use the plastic bungs usually supplied with the machine to reduce operating nose when in use.

Connecting the machine: 1. Electric.The machine needs to be connected to an electrical supply and be plumbed for water entering and being exhausted in use. The connection may be a straight forward socket connected to the wall or be hard wired into a connection box. Ensure that any extension cable is correctly secured off the ground preferably against the wall in a position that will not be compromised if there is a water spillage in use. Electricity and water is a lethal combination.

Connecting the machine: 2. Supply Water. All machines offered by ourselves have one cold water feed pipe so any hot water supply should be capped off using a brass fitting made specifically for this purpose. The blue (cold) pipe will have two connections. The 90 degree connection should be screwed just a little above hand tight on the washing machine by using the plumbers grips to add no more than a quarter turn which should be ideal. It is important to not overtighten as the threads could break or be very difficult to remove in the future! The straight 180 degree connection should be connected to the plumbing in a similar manner. Once connected then turn on the water allowing the pressure of the cold feed to reach the machine. Nothing should happen at this point as the solenoid will prevent any water from entering the machine until you are ready.It is good practice however to turn the water off after use to give further protection against water escape. 

Connecting the machine: 3. Waste Water. The waste is often thought as the easy job but can provide real complications to the installation. The most common method of connecting the waste pipe to the plumbing is via a stand pipe designed for this very purpose. Ensure you make use of the u-bend supplied that will ensure the waste pipe is funnelled correctly downwards into the stand pipe. A good guide is to ensire a minimim of 4-5cm of waste pipe protudes below the u-bend. The u-bend will be able to be held in place by screwing against the wall or by string /cable to the plumbing. Whatever method you use please ensure that any vibration or movement will not allow the pipe to pop out from the stand pipe and cause a flood. The other method of attaching the waste pipe to the plumbing is to connect via an available spigot under the sink. First ensure that you remove the end of the spigot as it is supplied sealed. This can be done by heavy duty sissors or more usually a hacksaw. The waste pipe can then be connected using a jubilee clip that should ensure a water tight fit. The pipe should include a u-bend at this point ensuring that the waste water is forced above the bottom of the sink as otherwise the sink will drain directly into the washing machine. This in the trade is known as backfilling which can cause dirty water ending up in the drum of the machine. This is a most common issue and is not a fault of the machine so be careful at this point!     

Final steps: At this point the power can be turned on and the machine be run through a test cycle. Ensure that the water is entering the drum which should then rotate in the normal manner when in washing mode. Turn the dial or control to spin or drain to check for any leaks. We sometimes find that the old machine may have caused a partial blockage through not pumping out at an appropriate force. If the waste water exhausted from the machine at a higher pressure is escaping from the top of the stand pipe when fitted in this way it is best to call a plumber to clear any obstruction before considering the machine to be fully commissioned and ready for use. The final job is to position the machine exactly where it should go and check for any wobble or rocking. The front feet are adjustable which should allow most machines to sit squarely and be sturdy on the floor. We suggest that the machine be inclined very slightly backwards say only 2-3 degrees from upright. A spirit level is a great tool to level the machine ready for action. 

We hope this guide is informative and of assistance. Best of luck!