Appliance Installation Guide- Dishwashers

Freestanding Dishwashers- A step by step guide.

At Carters we deliver and install a large number of dishwashers on a daily basis. It is a growing category as this labour saving machine is becoming an essential part in our kitchens. Our Delivery/Installation crew are well able to complete most installations at a very competitive rate but if you wish to undertake this job yourself then please spend a few minutes in reading this informative guide.

Be Prepared: We believe that installing a dishwasher is a job for two people. In many ways it is very similar to installing a washing machine. Ensure that you use gloves to move the machine into position and that you have basic tools including a plumbers wrench ready for use.

Starting the Job: 1.  The first job is to establish where the dishwasher will be positioned. In most cases there will be an obvious place usually very near to the sink with plumbing already installed. Bear in mind that most dishwashers are supplied with a 1.5 metre cold inlet water hose. We can supply an extra length 2.5 metre hose but would not recommend extending any further. If there is no other option than to place this machine a further distance away then we suggest asking a local plumber to install additional plumbing to supply and remove water.   

Starting the Job: 2. Unpacking and preparing the machine for use. First unpack the machine from it's protective packaging. This may be a mixture of cardboard, wood, nylon strapping and polystrene. We have found that every manufacturer protects their machines from damage when transporting them from the factory to your home in different ways so make sure that all such material is removed. A good idea at this stage is to consult the user manual or the installation manual that should give all the information needed at this stage of the operation.

Connecting the machine: 1. Electric.The machine needs to be connected to an electrical supply and be plumbed for water entering and being exhausted in use. The connection may be a straight forward socket connected to the wall or be hard wired into a connection box. Ensure that any extension cable is correctly secured off the ground preferably against the wall in a position that will not be compromised if there is a water spillage in use. Electricity and water is a lethal combination.

Connecting the machine: 2. Supply Water. All dishwashers offered by ourselves have one cold water feed pipe .The cold pipe will have two connections. The 90 degree connection should be screwed just a little above hand tight on the dishwasher by using the plumbers grips to add no more than a quarter turn which should be ideal. It is important to not overtighten as the threads could break or be very difficult to remove in the future! The straight 180 degree connection should be connected to the plumbing in a similar manner. Once connected then turn on the water allowing the pressure of the cold feed to reach the machine. Nothing should happen at this point as the solenoid will prevent any water from entering the machine until you are ready.It is good practice however to turn the water off after use to give further protection against water escape. 

Connecting the machine: 3. Waste Water. The waste is often thought as the easy job but can provide real complications to the installation. The most common method of connecting the waste pipe to the plumbing is via a stand pipe designed for this very purpose. Ensure you make use of the u-bend supplied that will ensure the waste pipe is funnelled correctly downwards into the stand pipe. A good guide is to ensire a minimim of 4-5cm of waste pipe protudes below the u-bend. The u-bend will be able to be held in place by screwing against the wall or by string /cable to the plumbing. Whatever method you use please ensure that any vibration or movement will not allow the pipe to pop out from the stand pipe and cause a flood. The other method of attaching the waste pipe to the plumbing is to connect via an available spigot under the sink. First ensure that you remove the end of the spigot as it is supplied sealed. This can be done by heavy duty sissors or more usually a hacksaw. The waste pipe can then be connected using a jubilee clip that should ensure a water tight fit. The pipe should include a u-bend at this point ensuring that the waste water is forced above the bottom of the sink as otherwise the sink will drain directly into the washing machine. This in the trade is known as backfilling which can cause dirty water ending up in the drum of the machine. This is a most common issue and is not a fault of the machine so be careful at this point!     

Final steps: At this point the power can be turned on to allow the dishwasher to run through a test cycle. Ensure that the water is entering the machine by selecting an appropriate wash programme. The water may take a short time to first enter the machine at this first time but there will not be a delay in the future. Turn the dial or control to spin or drain to check for any leaks. We sometimes find that the old machine may have caused a partial blockage through not pumping out at an appropriate force. If the waste water exhausted from the machine at a higher pressure is escaping from the top of the stand pipe when fitted in this way it is best to call a plumber to clear any obstruction before considering the machine to be fully commissioned and ready for use. The final job is to position the machine exactly where it should go and check for any wobble or rocking. The front feet are adjustable which should allow most machines to sit squarely and be sturdy on the floor. We suggest that the machine be inclined very slightly backwards say only 2-3 degrees from upright. A spirit level is a great tool to level the machine ready for action. 

We hope this guide is useful and informative . Best of luck!